Choose your Automotive paint color for your 2013 Suzuki S-Presso

Restore Your 2013 Suzuki S-Presso Finish In Two Steps

Select Your Suzuki's Color (Step One)

AutomotiveTouchup paint products are custom mixed to perfectly match the color of your 2013 Suzuki S-Presso using a basecoat/clearcoat system just like factory specs. To insure a proper match, you’ll need to know your vehicle’s color code, so you can find it on the chart below. The paint code will be located on either the firewall, in the driver side door edge, or door jamb. Click here for Suzuki paint code location diagrams and label examples.

Chip Color Codes Color Description
2013 Suzuki S-Presso Touch Up Paint | Superior White 11U, 26U, D01 11U, 26U, D01 Superior White
2013 Suzuki S-Presso Touch Up Paint | Silky Silver Metallic X2S, Z2S, ZS X2S, Z2S, ZS Silky Silver Metallic

 

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Did you choose the wrong vehicle model?


Did you choose the wrong model? How about the 2013 Suzuki 800, a-Star, Aerio, Bandit, Beidouxing, Brezza, Carry, Cerato, Ciaz, Dzire, Eeco, Equator, Escudo, Esteem, Estilo, Fronx, Grand Vitara, Gypsy, Karimun, Kizashi, Omni, Ritz, S Cross, Sidekick, Sierra, Spectra, Super Carry, Swift, SX4, Versa, Xbee, XL-7, or XL6?  If you're still not sure, take a look at our All 2013 Suzuki Models page.  Or, just go to our page dedicated to Suzuki Touch Up Paint

Why The Two-Step Paint System?

Your 2013 Suzuki S-Presso is painted at the factory with a high quality basecoat/clearcoat system. This two-step paint system consists of step one, the basecoat, which is your car’s actual color, and step two, the clearcoat, the specially formulated clear paint that protects the base color and provides the luster and deep shine your vehicle came with when new. AutomotiveTouchup products faithfully reproduce your vehicle manufacturer’s basecoat/clearcoat system.

Here's what our customers are saying about our Touch Up Paint:

Alli, owner of a 2012 Suzuki Equator from Michigan

The paint was an impeccable match. The instructions were easy to follow. What was missing was a little practical experience on the part of the technician (me). I was overly cautious about applying both the primer and the base coat because I didn't want any drips or runs. So I did a whole lot of very light coats, and it took forever, if you include the drying time, to get the area covered. I had a long, deep scratch on the door and although I sanded it, feathered it, and it appeared perfectly smooth to me, I discovered upon applying the base coat over my super smooth primer that I had a dip where I had sanded out the scratch. Probably should have feathered it way, way farther out even though it felt smooth to the touch. The coverage of the light sprays of base coat were also deceiving. The paint really wants to be sprayed a lot thicker. Even though it was a perfect match under the copious fluorescent lights in my garage, when I got it out into the sun I could see that it looked lighter in the primer area. It matched perfectly to the existing paint on the door where I feathered it out to blend in. The last problem area was the clear coat. Applying light coats made it go on dull. Needed a much heavier hand, which I steeled myself to do. But rubbing it out to get the "orange peel" out of it left a kind of light haze on it. The feathered edges of the clear coat also refused to sand smoothly into the existing paint. Have no idea why on that one. So, in spite of all these problems, the result was "good enough"...and if I should ever have to do it again I now have some valuable practical experience. [ATU Note: Clearcoat needs to be applied wet to look wet.]

Thomas W, owner of a 2012 Suzuki SX4 from North Lawrence, OH

Great product color was perfect.

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